Ask me anything related to 3d printing. #95
Replies: 34 comments 111 replies
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I'll kick it off with a question about acceptable extrusion multiplier ranges. My question is the following: Here's the context: I'm using Sovol's own brand PLA (new spool, not the stuff included with the printer). I dried the filament to be sure. I was having some overextrusion issues (nozzle running through/into protruding excess filament), so I followed Ellis' tuning guide:
Next, I calibrated the extrusion multiplier. I had to drop this down to ~82% to avoid the nozzle running through the top layer and causing ridges (there are still slight ridges where the infill overlaps the perimeter). Any advice would be much appreciated! |
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@NikDijkema An extrusion multiplier of less than 85% is a bit unusual, but if the prints are coming out dimensionally correct, then I see no cause for concern. You mentioned babystepping: have you saved the babystepped z_offset? Are you having to adjust z_offset during prints? Are you using reliable print settings? I would suggest you use Ellis' print settings which you can find on this repo to eliminate poor print settings as an issue. You'll have to adjust them to work with Marlin, and slow them down a bit. Post pictures of top layers and bottom layers if possible. |
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I've found an issue as to why the probe was probing out of the bed with having the 1:1 settings with the SV06+ repo. I had a screw in my 5015 fan mode blocking the tool head to go to the very left side, this offset the whole probed area. I'm now using the same settings as in SV06+ branch.
As you can see, the left side is too close (Almost fine) while the right side is too far. I see the mesh is applied as the Z motors turn a bit but it seems to fail to compensate anyway. What can I do to fix this? This is really beyond me. |
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Some updates from my side. I realized that I may be suffering from the X-axis twist you mentioned in other discussions. So what I did was:
I feel like this is the way, but it is still not 100% correct. The right bottom corner is already making ridges while I see some spots where I still would need to go a bit lower. Do you know how would I make it perfect? |
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Let the printer settle a bit, spend some time printing... |
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This was actually great advice. I spend some. time printing. I also ran the X Axis twist with 6 sample points instead of 3 and now. my first layer is really great across whole build plate. I also went trough the tuning the Input shaper with Adxl and setting up pressure advance following the pattern guide. I'm now really satisfied with the state of. my. printer and I print fast and reliably again. All my last prints came up flawlessly. Thank you for the support here and also in PMs |
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Pleasure! Please star the repo if you haven't already. |
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Anyways my question is about the the hot end.The nozzle heatbrake and heatblock. Can you eli5 the procedure for getting proper spacing from the heat block from the nozzle for Sv06 plus, including heat recommendations. I don't see allot of videos or explanations. I did learn about heat creep though. I see allot of people with problems with extruder and melted blobs of filament. I'm really trying to follow advice I'm just really new. I will eventually follow your instructions for kipper and a btt pad 7. Thanks so much |
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That's awesome! I'm only an uncle but I know how much work it is, it helps if there's family nearby. Merry Christmas! I've seen the y-belt stop, but have never tried it. There is pretty much zero chance of damage due to correct sensorless homing usage. The designer of the part mentions bearings being damaged over time, but bearings in this printer are cheap to replace, I bought some backups a year ago for ~$5 for 11 bearings. Also keep in mind that the printhead is also doing some smashing, a far more expensive part. Sensorless homing is used in Vorons btw, so this has little to do with money, it's more about simplifying the design/hardware, which does indirectly reduce cost. Having said all that, I do think there's some value in the part. Give it a shot! |
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Thanks for the explanation on sensorIess homing. The belt clip addition definitely seems less violent. The pad does seem to kind of jump a bit when it hits the bearing housing without it. I think I've had 95% of the printer apart now and it's been educational. EDIT: So I went back in there and what the heck tool do you use to screw/unscrew the heat brake without ruining it? It appears to be brass and it has heat conductive paste on it I assume to help conduct the heat out. maybe Im ok but I was going to advance the break to move the nozzle out a bit and put a little ridge into the brake then gave up |
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To diagnose issues, you should only use print settings that are known to be good, find them on this repo. I know from experience that switching from Cura to PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer is difficult, but it's well worth it: you save so much time. Your nozzle gap looks. The heatbreak I've already told you about, but I'll add that it's easier than you think; won't be too drastic of an issue if done hot. Definitely has spares when you attempt this. BTW please star the repo if you haven't already. |
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I think you intended to finish the first sentence? My nozzle gap looks ______. I understand the principals of the heat break nozzle and heat creep. I must of missed the information on exactly what tool to use so you don't damage it. Pliers? I'm going to assume it should be done while the heat block is hot. I've done slight damage to it already with pliers and cloth and it didn't budge. I found a video https://youtu.be/1_GH0VTaXJ8?si=z78d9Jpti_F2V_Bh but it is for sv06 not plus which is different block. Sovol official videos don't seem to cover |
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Your nozzle gap looks fine. You absolutely have to hold things with pliers/adjustable wrench because removal is done hot; the hotend should just rotate away from the heatbreak. If you found that video useful, then you have your answer, the same principle applies to both hotends. It's a pity no Plus owners have tried to find an aftermarket replacement for the hotend. On the SV06, the heatbreak+heatblock can be replaced for about $5. Happy New Year everyone! |
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Hi, I've got one question. Would you be able to create similar configs for OrcaSlicer for SV06Plus as well? I believe that the settings are more or less similar to PS. It would be welcomed as I've always had great results with your SS configs, but the OrcaSlicer is looking great in terms of UX. Thank you. |
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I'm not an OS user, so no, I have no plans on doing this. If you look on printables, however, you will find OS profiles for the plus. |
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Okay I see, but the OS profiles on printables are by no means this. I will try myself to copy as much as I can over To OS. |
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thanks for the encouraging words. i will send them an email. |
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Hey Bassamanator, Thanks |
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Another question just jumped at me. |
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Just follow the docs, so if they don't mention splitting, then don't. The skr can't generate such high microsteps as the MCU isn't as powerful. |
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Thanks |
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I damaged by main extruder board doing a 5015 fan mod using the recommended screw length listed for the mod. Its of course my fault but I am now looking to replace the part. I have sent and email to solvo. There is a sv06 extruder board on solvos website but Idk if they are the same considering they are different extruders.
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All the new sovol printers share the same extruder as their base so the pcb should work. The config bundles support all the new printers. |
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Hi, It is me again. I recently changed nozzle to 0.6, it was a bit shorter but because of the FAN mod i did it was not an issue. But since then I cannot get the First layer down properly. I do Bed Screw Adjust until they are all just fine, then set Z Offser, Then DO CREATE MESH. But even after doing this, The printer still fails to compensate. It is always just fine on Left side while too close on right side. I tried already so many times that I don't know what do do next. I tried X AXIS TWIST COMPENSATION without a success. I think my only hope is to change mesh manually, but I'm not sure how should I proceed with such a technique." I'm using SS with your profiles. Do you have any idea or hint how to go from here? Thank you |
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I don't know the nitty gritty about twist compensation unfortunately, the documentation is sparse on the topic on klipper docs (maybe marlin docs have more to say on the topic?). One thing that you can trust is the data generated by screws_tilt_calculate, therefore your bed is quite level, so don't try to level it. I won't try to explain manually editing the mesh, and I recommend you not go down that path, but that is an option. Try axis twist compensation again but try to be more careful; make sure the nozzle is clean. Ideally you want to use a feeler gauge. |
Nope. Check the relevant discussion on this repo for a visualization of the problem, also on the everything-sv06 repo. Incidentally, someone recently started selling a carbon fibre carriage which has 4 points of contact for the SV06, look for it on the sovol facebook group. |
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Sure I think that is where I sort of got the idea. It looked like the nozzle was tilting as the x twisted moving it partly in to the y axis. I thought maybe two bearings on 2 rails would be more stable and less twisty. I will go back and review and thanks for info. I am sure your right. Do you know what size of grub screw is used in the extruder to fix the gears in place. I ran into my first Sovol quality control issue and my extra ordered one came with one of the two missing. There was some weird damage to the aluminum block too like the end of a screw had dug into it. I have a dispute in with Aliexpress but in case that doesnt pull through it seems like a very small item to hold me back |
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@bassamanator I was trying for so long and there is no amount of tweaking that would make it work. It is always so far on right side, Z Axis Twist compensation have no effect, If I print it with or without it in the config the result is the same. |
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Let's see some pictures @ZdenekSC |
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video000000.mp4 |
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Away from my machine, but it's an M3x2mm or 2.5mm grub screw (measure the other one to get the length). |
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~~Can't seem to find the origins of this message on github, but here's my
response~~.
@eblohm Some have looked, but we have not found an aftermarket replacement. You
should email info@sovol3d.com to get a replacement.
…On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 9:57 PM Eric Blohm ***@***.***> wrote:
Hello! Not directly related to the SV06 firmware/settings, but do you have
any recommendations for a replacement build plate? My SV06+ came with the
gold magnet and black adhesive top but the adhesive is *terrible* and is
constantly popping up from the gold plate while printing which is throwing
prints off. I'm hoping to replace it with something that's just one piece
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@ZdenekSC. What was the procedure you used to square your gantry if you don't mind me asking. I eyeballed it with a square awhile ago and it looked pretty good. It looks like even if u remove the controller board box and power supply it's difficult to find a place to lay against the chassis and Gantry with a square. Did u have to do anything like add those printable shims I've seen around. Thanks |
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@bassamanator Your opinion on oldham couplers on SV06 plus z screw. I think i have some pictures of the bearing at the top of the z gantry for mine. Seems like there are different iterations of the z screw for the sv06 plus |
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Even when I was suffering from X axis twist, I purposely didn't try this part, too much guess work involved. I don't think this is a serious solution, but could it solve the issue? Absolutely! Oldham couplers, or any solution to address z wobble (which every printer experiences), are good things, I recommend them if you have some cash burning a hole in your pocket. Are they necessary? Not in most cases. |
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Ok I'll probably steer clear of the first mod. The Oldham couplers seems like a fairly cheap mod or am I missing something? Are these no sufficient https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Oldham-couplers.html?osf=direct&spm=a2g0n.home.header.0 |
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This brings me to an important question and problem I have living in Canada on the prairies. Sourcing metric nuts bolts and washers. I drove 30 minutes to get an m3 25 mm bolt. When I got there(some place that deals with not the public I think) the guy asked me how many and I said 3 and he just gave them to me and looked at me sympathetically, lol. Can you please point to a good kit on aliexpress that would be a good start to have for these printers or some other hobby that uses these metric bolts and nuts.? ? There only appears to be one 3d printer shop in town and they don't list these small things. |
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@dasb00ter I would say that many users might be able to finagle an appropriate squaring even with the slots.
Also, take note that an informed user had a top beam that was warped along 3 axes, so maybe check that as well while you're at it. |
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I replaced all the bearings(11) so I had the top of the gantry off anyways. Mine seems pretty square. Removing the power supply is a bit of a pain to use a full size square. Is there a quick release mod maybe something like that controller box has or is that a bad idea in terms of grounding. I feel like I want to go back and check with the square with everything set up and the printer on its own table. I will go back and check the top bar as I missed that. How to detect a three axis warping on the top bar? Yikes! Edit: I've very much noticed allot of drag on the x axis carriage when I tighten the bolts for the cover for the 3 bearings in the carriage(there are 6 bolts). They have to be very loose to get smooth action from the carriage but this part also supports the extruder in its proper orientation. I'm not sure what to do in this case? I found that on the y axis that maybe one of my rods is bent. I have the iko bearings aligned with the tails going the same way. If I exchange the bars one travels nicely on both sides and will glide right through, one makes a grinding noise and is draggy. One rod spins easy and the other not so much.I spent allot of time fiddling with the screw tighteness on the bearing holder to try and make it better. I had some time at work and I've been researching Vorons. I was looking at kits? specifically at the Siboor kit. Im in Canada and this kit seemed to have reasonable parts at a reasonable price. I looked at magic phoenix also. AliExpress is such a mess(I think on purpose) and the Siboor store seems to have the same thing over and over but I think the BOM is different. I know purists like to get it all separate but the cost of shipping alone omg. Did u ever look at the kits? Can u share some knowledge. I'm really far from pulling the trigger on this but I'm looking |
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Someone remixed my frame mounting solutions on printables for the psu, I think it might be what you're looking for. For the x axis drag, make sure there are no cracks in the plastic housing and that it's not warped. This is a weird issue. I hope you're not overtightening.
Keep in mind that you have metal rubbing on metal here, so sooner or later you will see marks on your rods, and rods do wear out. Is that rod that is bent creating the drag? Keep in mind, it's hard to eyeball these things. I know of at least 1 user who had bent rods and had sovol send them replacements. Have any moving part, such as the x carriage or the bed, that doesn't move smoothly is problematic, will wear out related parts faster, and will affect max velocities. Simply move the printhead and the bed back and forth by hand quickly, and if they move smoothly and freely, you should be fine. Kits are the way to go imo. I bought mine from https://www.3dlabtech.ca/, it was for the ldo voron 0.1. Great kit, but very expensive, I would probably buy a siboor now, but I'm more fearless than I once was. As long as you are a problem solver, any kit will do, and having a working printer already makes the process more or less a breeze. Find out what kits are good by joining the Voron discord, but I warn you, those people on there are fanboys, they worship anything Voron and do not think critically, so spend a lot of time asking about kits at different times of the day over the course of weeks if not months. Be sure to have a well-equipped workshop before you decide to build any printer, I have a repo for that... |
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Thank you I eventually tracked down your frame mounting extrusion solution and remix for a meanwell power supply. I will see if I can work something out from that. I think the bigger fish to fry here is the x axis carriage. As far as I can tell its important to have all parts of the printer working well but special attention is often paid to the x-axis. So I am only tightening the screws by spinning the long axis of the allen key( I would say pretty loose and not compatible with your klipper speed test lol!) I have made a video but its hard to convey the difference in drag with the 4 outside screws in place. It drags and sticks quite badly. I can see along the edge of the carriage at the top and bottom where the parts come together that the middle is bowed out when those screws are in place. I hypothesize that the slot with 2 bearings is having those bearings taken out of alignment I can feel this when I try to feed a bar and I think you can see it in the video. I will try to draw a picture too. 1)try and print a part What I Have done is used Tuc Tape(insulation plastic tape) stretched quite tightly and wound around the middle of the carriage to secure it and bring in the bowed out middle. This is a terrible solution for obvious reasons. |
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The video is very convincing, skip the 'hacks' and contact sovol for replacement parts. Quality control is always an issue at this price point, unfortunately. |
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Thanks for the feed back. I also thought it was cool as hell. I'll probably
spend some time in the metaphysical 3d printing kiddy pool learning how to
swim first lol.
…On Tue, 13 Feb 2024, 1:33 pm Bassam, ***@***.***> wrote:
I think *automated* multi-colour printing is cool as hell, but I'm not
involved in this project, nor have I tried any other similar systems.
There is a project that pre-dates the SV06 line of printers, but was
adapted to work with this line as well. Can't seem to find it right now,
but I know there was a parts page for it on printables.
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Well it has been since December I have been trying to get my printer into "Klipper" shape. After contacting Solvo they apparently are sending me a new x carriage and new x and y rails and some bearings. I am hoping to put everything together one more time. The last things will probably put me on a printing hiatus waiting for parts from Ali but if this is the way then I will do it. |
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I used Vortex for half a year and always suffered from lack of cooling! When I switched to it I couldnt feel any improvements compared to stock cooling but I still used it as couldn't find other option. |
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fans and extruder on your everything sv06 github page seem to be a placeholder for information you were going to add. Or I have not navigated it correctly. Can you be more specific. I think those bearings maybe cost for 4 of them 12$ or so |
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I need to rename the outline a bit, this is what I meant. For the bearings: if your current bearings (roughly CAD$7 for 12 pieces, yes they're that cheap) are rolling issue free, what are you hoping to get with IKO bearings that are $4/piece (this is an aliexpress price, can't even say if they're legit)? |
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Thanks for the redirection, I valued the information. In terms of the bearings I meant in the context of the above post(videos) where I was talking about the x carriage. So Solvo has apparently sent me new x axis linear rods and y axis linear rods and new x carriage. I guess I was asking if the bearings should just be replaced on spec too. Was wondering ,I guess, how long would it take for the bearings to become damaged in the situation above. I was looking at the z axis motor mounts and on one side they are more than 90 degrees and on the other side less than 90 degrees. I see people shimming the motors to square them up to the gantry but I am not sure what I can do for the one motor that is pointed in towards the gantry. So frustrating I am trying to make the hardware work but it just seems like the quality isnt there. Printing with the printer I can see the nozzle dragging through the first layer in some parts and on other parts its too high leaving space between the lines of plastic. I have also done the silicone spacer bed mod too which hasn't really improved my situation. I really feel I am struggling with this printer. I will just try to make the hardware as tight and true as I can then finally put klipper on it and hope that the mesh and x twist can hopefully compensate for the hardware. @blazing1991 did you happen to see this remix also https://www.printables.com/model/685826-high-flow-ducts-for-sv06-single-and-double-5015-pa, Thoughts? |
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From what I remember about the video, it was clearly the rod that was 'defective'. I'm not against quality bearings mind you, it's just that if I were to replace mine (and of course I would have to replace all of them), it would set me back $4 x 10 = $40, and I wouldn't see a difference in print quality.
In that situation, I see the rods incurring damage, not the other way around. Keep in mind however that eventually, all rods develop 'scars' from the metal rolling on metal action, it takes a while though.
It is a budget printer, but some of your very crucial parts are defective. In 3d printing, Be sure to run through the bible (https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/) after you've replaced parts on your machine.
The knowledge you gain from struggling with a non-performant printer (or anything else in life) is priceless. Also, I think your mindset is completely incorrect here: Klipper is not a prize to award your printer, Klipper makes working with, and improving, your printer easier. |
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You were right of course it just became that way after the challenging hardware. I have klipperized after replacing what they sent me. Just working on that now. Thanks. @blazing1991 yes that design seems to work well I will stick with that one for now |
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Hi there, I recently upgraded to klipper with great succes, thanks to your detailed guide and video. But how can i adjust the z height? Before with stock firmware it was good. Read at a few places to not mess with XYZ steps, so prefer not to.. |
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The screws are within 0.05 turns or so and the bed mesh provides me a total difference of 0.483. but that is the least of my problem, if i do a first layer test it is pretty good so... At the moment i am reprinting the cube with the new profile and with/ without ironing. Will update when prints are done. |
I saw this and decided I would give PS another try with your bundle. I duplicating a print I just did in OS. I noticed it didnt use adaptive purge? What did I miss? I see some custom Gcode imported? Do I have to do make any changes |
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Just import the bundle. |
Well I mean I did import the bundle from your post just a few posts back. Definitely got a non adaptive purge line. I'll check to make sure I've got the purge line in the Kamp settings uncommented but I'm sure I did as I already printed with another slicer and adaptive purge worked. Are you still not going back to super slicer? The results were mixed. The Ellis decorative settings were much faster 7 hrs versus Vs 16 hrs for the same print. |
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I've already answered your purge related question in your own thread, see above. |
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You mentioned I think previously that you typically print similar type of models. Do you often print using organic/tree supports? Do you have any advice? I have a repeated issue wherein my supports get hit. I have a bin of failed prints. I was really trying to get the issue squared away but I have failed. Things I have tried: |
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Set zhop to 0.6. |
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Thanks for your prompt reply. Do you view zhop as a bandaid or a necessity? Should I be working to continue to tune the printer to get rid of the necessity of zhop. The more I print things the more I realize its almost a "developed talent" to print different types of models. An innocent looking model can be really challenging to print. Do you feel there is some specific type of print that your really good at getting done and do you have any tips? Sometimes I wonder at the tone of this thread whether its suppose to be a coffee shop conversation about 3d printing or something else. I mostly come here when I am desperate sometimes I wish I knew more so that it would be more entertaining for the more experienced in the discussion. |
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Certainly not a band aide, more like a tool in your toolkit. The most expensive bambu labs printer will need to utilize zhop on occasion, it can't be helped. If you have a part with a lot of overhang, for example, and you're printing fast, the plastic will curl upwards, meaning the nozzle will collide with lower layers, layers that should technically be out of the way, it can't be helped; zhop to the rescue. Prints that don't require support are easiest of course. Can't say I have any tips besides using good slicer settings, and making sure your printer is well tuned, see the initial steps on the everything sv06 repo for that. Also helps to realize that
Great analogy! |
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If you're having a layer shift, then either things are not tuned well
enough hardware-wise, or you're printing too fast. Have you run through the
initial steps linked in the first post?
…On Wed, Jan 1, 2025 at 5:36 AM 83attacc ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi, First of all thank you for everything you give is to enjoy Klipper.
After I do everything you write, I got the problem that I got “y - layer
shift”. Belt is right tighten, screws are tight etc.
I do not what to do anymore.
Do you more advices for me?
Best regards
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Hi,
I Have done all things you say we had to do.
Fast printing, I don’t know, I take the prusaslicer config files and slice a stl with Andrew Ellis profile.
But you are right, if I print slow, there are no layer shift.
But I thought that the sv06+ can print so fast like in the profile.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ali Osman Atak
Am 01.01.2025 um 21:19 schrieb Bassam ***@***.***>:
If you're having a layer shift, then either things are not tuned well
enough hardware-wise, or you're printing too fast. Have you run through the
initial steps linked in the first post?
On Wed, Jan 1, 2025 at 5:36 AM 83attacc ***@***.***> wrote:
Hi, First of all thank you for everything you give is to enjoy Klipper.
After I do everything you write, I got the problem that I got “y - layer
shift”. Belt is right tighten, screws are tight etc.
I do not what to do anymore.
Do you more advices for me?
Best regards
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Like Bassamanator stated it could be many things. If Y shift is the only issue then I guess you can work back from the print surface through the belts etc. I would point out that bed slingers arent especially nimble in the Y axis especially with the larger heavy sv06 plus bed. I ended up using Prusas online belt tuner with an iPhone. It was tighter than I expected it to be but my layer shift was removed. I also ended up listening to a guitar I have(which I have on my list of things to learn). One of the strings was tuned in about the same range at it was similar ish. It seems to me the benchy printed at the speeds in the stock Marlin is practically false advertising that the machine is put together properly lol |
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@83attacc This is a budget printer, meaning, there is no guarantee that your unit will be comparable to mine, speed-wise, in the state that it's sent to us from the manufacturer. What that means is that you have to tune it to print at higher speeds. You can use the Here's an abbreviated log I kept during my speed testing process: Another important factor to keep in mind is that as the print continues, the bed becomes heavier and heavier. This becomes relevant with large parts, not so much with smaller parts. |
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I understand, I think I had to read then, because I am a noob. I thought just flash it, install Klipper on a Pi and Print as fast as you can 😂😂😅
Thank you for your help. I try to print slow, i got no time to tune everything to Print @ max. Speed.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ali Osman Atak
Am 01.01.2025 um 22:11 schrieb Bassam ***@***.***>:
@83attacc<https://github.com/83attacc> This is a budget printer, meaning, there is no guarantee that your unit will be comparable to mine, speed-wise, in the state that it's sent to us from the manufacturer. What that means is that you have to tune it to print at higher speeds.
You can use the test_speed macro to figure out the speed limits of your printer, but be warned
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Very bad form to lie to people who are trying to help you. |
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How you mean that! I dont want to lie to you!
Maybe I say something wrong, because my Englisch is not so good.
If I say say something wrong, I apologize to all of you.
Without your help, your files, I would never try to flash my printer to Klipper. Now it is printing with Klipper, but not so fast with the Andrew Ellis profiles.
I print now slow, and even this is for me good enough, I want to lie to nobody. I am sorry.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ali Osman Atak
Am 08.01.2025 um 07:10 schrieb Bassam ***@***.***>:
I Have done all things you say we had to do.
i got no time to tune everything to Print @ max. Speed.
Very bad form to lie to people who are trying to help you.
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It's alright my friend. We can mark that down as a misunderstanding. Run through the initial steps when you have time, and you'll at least have a good shot at high/er speed printing. Feel free to ask for help. |
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Thank you, I am really sorry if I hurt somebody.
I will try it the initial steps . I will told you if I have try it.
Thank you
😊😊
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ali Osman Atak
Am 08.01.2025 um 20:08 schrieb Bassam ***@***.***>:
It's alright my friend. We can mark that down as a misunderstanding.
Run through the initial steps when you have time, and you'll at least have a good shot at high/er speed printing. Feel free to ask for help.
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You're always welcome here. All the best! |
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Just thought I would drop back in and say I tried a couple of Oldham couplers. The ones with the incorporated t-nut couldn't be threaded unfortunately. Specifically ones from here. I think the diameter was correct but maybe the pitch was wrong. I'm confused as I thought the rods were pretty similar with cartesians. Open to suggestions. Here is the link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005321088643.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.20d8f19cazZ3gT @bassamanator are your unload and load filament macros custom? I did some updates to the btt pad 7 and they disappeared out of the macro section where I had been accessing and now there under the extrusion button. That's on klippersreen. |
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It's possible to hide macros via dashboard settings. If they are not hidden, then you can always just copy and paste from this repo. I wasn't a fan of the pom-nuts at first, but they do lead to less wear and are fine with little to no lubrication. Those nuts you posted are for the ender 3, the lead screws for that printer have a lead of 8mm, meaning 1 full revolution of z moves the extruder up my 8mm, whereas the SV06 has lead screws with a lead of 4mm; we're not talking about pitch here. 8mm vs 4mm means that there is more fine grained control over z movements. Related, make sure for this printer that you're using layer heights that are even, so 0.26mm and not 0.25mm (for example), so as to not do any rounding. Not a topic I'm willing to go into right now, but my slicer configs are already setup for this. Check the everything repo for details about pitch, lead, etc., I might have links there as well for purchase from aliexpress. |
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Thanks for the information and patience. I definitely went down the rabbit hole on screw lead and pitch with my Google fu. Cartesian printers must use multi start screws then? I believe I did see something in your repo on lead screws. I'll check in now. I think the specs listed in your repo are probably for sv06. I'll research the sv06 plus. I don't want to play around with different spec'd lead screws I just need longer ones than the sv06. Maybe I'll just compare the macros in your repo to what ever I have now and proceed from there. I didn't realize that klippersreen was essentially it's own GUI. I thought perhaps mainsail had adapted to the pads specific browser. |
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Made a few adjustments to the macro configs to stop the nozzle from oozing filament everywhere while performing KAMP probing before prints. Currently it is set to keep the hotend temperature at 150c while probing, then sets to your slicer defined print temperature. I also commented out some settings in the RESUME macro to stop the nozzle from dragging filament over parts on the bed when doing filament changes. Both of these changes helped drastically reduce print failures due to nozzle crashes and gummed up filament in places it shouldn't be. Feel free to make or propose adjustments as needed. |
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For those interested, these are the relevant changes introduced into {% if kampEnabled == 0 %}
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default ; NOTE if not using a mesh, comment out this line
M104 S150 ; set & don't wait for hotend temp
G28 Z ; final z homing
{% else %}
G28 Z ; final z homing
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; KAMP mesh
M104 S150 ; set & don't wait for hotend temp
{% endif %}
G1 X0 Y0 F{maxVelocityAdjusted}
M109 S150 ; set & wait for hotend temp
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G28 X Y
M109 S{hotendtemp}
LINE_PURGE
Warning I have not tested this code. |
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Trying this out as I get a fair amount of oozing as well. Why do you have the second bed mesh calibrate? |
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@bassamanator I have a Problem that after xy Hours the Print stops with no error, or MCU Missing -> Please restart. Sometimes after 1 h ... sometimes after 10h print. And the Nozzle parks on the surface of the print. Any Ideas? |
Did you modify your USB cable to make it a data only cable. I think there are reports similar to this with the hypothesis that the solvo board doesn't like the 5 volts into it's USB port. |
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I cant remember i modify my cable. Have to look at it at home.
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Again, this is guess, I could be wrong. Is it possible for you to purchase a cable where you are? They aren't terribly expensive here, where I am, and easy to find on Amazon/Aliexpress. Moreover, the cable itself likely has loose wires inside its sheath, so soldering the connector to the board will likely not help, and could cause further issues. Furthermore, do tape up with 5V line like @dasb00ter mentioned, there's a link on this repo; thermal tape works better than electrical tape, I find, because it's so thin. |
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Changed Cable short Print works... after about 5h Print i got this: Maybe it is the raspberry pi or the sd card or or or... Log is only showing "nul" |
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hmmm not seeing "nul" anywhere, but the log isn't tell me much either way. Did the print fail though? |
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Hi Bassam, Sorry if this isn't the correct place to ask.... I'm trying out using the Kamp feature and everything is working great, except I can't seem to get the Smart Parking feature working. After it does the adaptive mesh, the printer seems to park at the front left to finish nozzle heating before going on to do the Line purge. Am i correct in thinking that it should stay close to the print object area whilst heating the nozzle to final temp? I have uncommented the [include ./Smart_Park.cfg] in the Kamp config. Do i need to add anything to the slicer, like i had to with the Line_Purge in order to get that working? My slicer (OS) start G-Code is: Also, I get this message "KAMP purge is not using firmware retraction, it is recommended to configure it." is this anything to worry about? As i say, everything is working great apart from the smart park and i can't seem to wrap my head around it. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers. |
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Ok, i think i sorted it, i changed the start macro to: {% if kampEnabled == 0 %}
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default ; NOTE if not using a mesh, comment out this line
M104 S{hotendtemp} ; set & don't wait for hotend temp
G28 Z ; final z homing
{% else %}
G28 Z ; final z homing
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; KAMP mesh
M104 S{hotendtemp} ; set & don't wait for hotend temp
{% endif %}
Smart_Park
M109 S{hotendtemp} ; set & wait for hotend temp
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bedI still get the message: ""KAMP purge is not using firmware retraction, it is recommended to configure it." is this anything to worry about?" Cheers. |
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This is not an issue. Search for |
Awesome. Cheers for the clarification. |
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Long-shot and possibly not what this thread is for, but any experience assembling the Tradrack MMU or does it make sense to you even if you haven't assembled it, specifically with the Encoder/Cutter mod? (This mod: https://www.printables.com/model/985791-tradrack-encoder-cutter-mod). It's a remix of another mod which I presume had instructions but is now deleted, so now the mod just is 20-something parts I've printed and figured out where about half of them go, but am stumped on the rest and the wiring and really want to get this thing finished. |
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No idea about this mod. Here's the source of this remix, which does contain instructions and links that should be relevant. |
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Thanks! Hopefully that will get me back on track (no pun intended) with getting this thing finished and up-and-running!
…On Sunday, September 21st, 2025 at 9:18 PM, Bassam ***@***.***> wrote:
No idea about this mod. Here's the [source](https://www.printables.com/model/559345-binkyrack-a-tradrack-encoder-mod) of this remix, which does contain instructions and links that should be relevant.
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Bit of a shot in the dark but would anyone happen to know what is causing these ribs to build up? I think this is about the 4th layer. It starts off fine on the first layer but as it builds up those ribs on the edges get bigger and bigger until the nozzle begins to collide and drag on them.
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You need to adjust I recommend you print add a cube to your plate, scale it to Moreover, make sure you have calibrated the flow rate of the filament, I suggest orca slicer YOLO. |
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Hi Bassam, thanks for replying! |
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Show me yours. First layers
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This is not a brag. It's just that without great first layers, all your subsequent layers will suffer. I recommend running through the |
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Also wanted to mention my new OS slicer settings, check the |
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